PolpErro

Just south of Looe is the smaller port of Polperro. A surfeit of touristy gift shops (a few just selling stuff for dogs – don’t know quite why) do not quite manage to spoil this quaint old Cornish fishing village whose narrow streets and pretty cottages remain undeniably attractive. Many of the cottages are covered with a profusion of flowers in summer and the streets are so narrow they are banned to cars, which makes Polperro an ideal place to explore on foot. The village was notorious for smuggling activities during the 18th and early 19th centuries.

In the 19th century, pilchards were landed in large quantities in the village. The pilchards were salted and cured and packed and the oil extracted using large screw presses in factories near to the harbour. Polperro is still a working fishing port and at high tide, boats can be seen unloading their catch on the quays which are strewn with pots and nets.

In addition, there are galleries and arts and crafts exhibitions plus Polperro holds an Arts Festival in June each year. Other community events include the Water Carnival and the Furry Dance. You may see Morris men or Clog dancers in the village too. Polperro Fishermen’s Choir is famous throughout Cornwall. It gives open-air performances on the quayside in the season.

Pleasure boats are on hand to offer half-hour trips along the coast towards Fowey. These trips are usually accompanied by a running commentary from the boatman, who may tell you a little more about the dangerous history behind this picture postcard facade.

As it is still a working harbour it is more authentic than Port Isaac and less gentrified than Padstow. Holiday let cottages abound (don’t rent here though unless you are happy being stuck in the village for a week – no parking) but there are plenty of locals still living here.